But there’s plenty to consider before giving your esthetician a ring: microblading, microfeathering, brow extensions (yes, really), and, finally, microshading. Let’s start with that last one, shall we? Here’s the breakdown of microshading, touted as the most natural-looking permanent brow procedure. Microshading is also a little less invasive than microblading. According to Alicia Halpin, esthetician and owner of Foundation Beauty & Esthetics, microblading “essentially scratches the pigment into the skin,” which can be mildly irritating. Because microshading pricks with small dots rather than handheld strokes, the process is typically much gentler on the skin. Other than that, “They’re very, very similar,” says Healy. “It’s just basically that the technique is different; you’re not dragging the line.” Some technicians will even combine both procedures, microblading with hairlike strokes in the front of the brow (to create more of a feathery effect) and shading toward the tail to emulate that natural finish. Microshading may also fare better for sensitive-skinned folk, as larger strokes of pigment (as with blading) can cause some irritation, remarks Halpin. Healy agrees, even noting that a microshading procedure usually hurts less than a typical microblading session. Of course, you should still proceed with caution, especially if you do have sensitive skin: Microshading is still a brow tattooing procedure, after all, and it might spark irritation for some. While the result may be more natural-looking, the procedure itself is certainly not—if you’re looking for all-natural ways to sprout fluffy brows, we suggest investing in a brow serum with castor oil or peptides1 to spur hair growth. In terms of aftercare, both experts suggest avoiding any heavy-duty chemical exfoliants for a few days, as well as any sweating or swimming. “You need to keep the area dry for 48 hours,” says Halpin. Your technician will also likely give you a topical healing cream to apply for a few days. Which brings us to the final warning: Your brows might flake, itch, and scab after the procedure. Don’t pick at those scabs! “If you do, you will be removing the pigment and create unevenness in the brows,” Halpin warns. Finally, let’s talk touchups. There’s some nuance here: Halpin explains that shaded brows can fade after three months, but Healy notes some people can actually wait up to 18 months without a follow-up. As a general rule, it depends on your skin type and preference. According to Healy, those with oily skin might need frequent routine touchups, whereas those with drier skin can get away with more time in between appointments. Nonetheless, routine upkeep is key: “The ink does change in color over time, and it often lifts off unevenly,” he explains. Just be mindful that this permanent makeup is, well, permanent. If you have any qualms about tattooing your brows, you can always lean on the occasional brow tint (which fades after six weeks or so), or rely on brow serums to spur hair growth. Good news: There’s much you can do if you feel your brows are more meager than most—perhaps try those avenues before diving straight into tattoos.
